The Sudetes (/suːˈdiːtiːz/ soo-DEE-teez), also known as the Sudeten Mountains or Sudetic Mountains, is a geomorphological subprovince of the Bohemian Massif province in Central Europe, shared by the Czech Republic, Poland and Germany. They consist mainly of mountain ranges and are the highest part of Bohemian Massif. They stretch from the Saxon capital of Dresden in the northwest across to the region of Lower Silesia in Poland and to the Moravian Gate in the Czech Republic in the east. Geographically the Sudetes are a Mittelgebirge with some characteristics typical of high mountains. Its plateaus and subtle summit relief makes the Sudetes more akin to mountains of Northern Europe than to the Alps.
Sudetes | |
---|---|
Śnieżne Kotły in the Karkonosze National Park | |
Highest point | |
Peak | Sněžka/Śnieżka |
Elevation | 1,603 m (5,259 ft) |
Coordinates | 50°44′10″N 15°44′24″E / 50.73611°N 15.74000°E |
Dimensions | |
Length | 300 km (190 mi) |
Naming | |
Native name | |
Geography | |
Divisions of the Sudetes | |
Countries | |
Regions/Voivodeships |
|
Range coordinates | 50°30′N 16°00′E / 50.5°N 16°E |
Geology | |
Orogenies | Variscan orogeny (assembly) Alpine orogeny (uplift) |
In the east of the Sudetes, the Moravian Gate and Ostrava Basin separates from the Carpathian Mountains. The Sudetes' highest mountain is Mount Sněžka/Śnieżka 1,603 m (5,259 ft), which is also the highest mountain of the Czech Republic, Bohemia, Silesia, and Lower Silesian Voivodeship, in the Giant Mountains, lying on the border between the Czech Republic and Poland. Mount Praděd (1,491 m/4,893 ft) in the Hrubý Jeseník mountains is the highest mountain of Moravia. Lusatia's highest point (1,072 m/3,517 ft) lies on Mount Smrk/Smrek in the Jizera Mountains, and the Sudetes' highest mountain in Germany, which is also the country's highest mountain east of the river Elbe, is Mount Lausche/Luž (793 m/2,600 ft) in the Zittau Mountains, the highest part of the Lusatian Mountains. The most notable rivers rising in the Sudetes are Elbe, Oder, Spree, Morava, Bóbr, Lusatian Neisse, Eastern Neisse, Jizera and Kwisa. The highest parts of the Sudetes are protected by national parks;Karkonosze and Stołowe (Table) in Poland and Krkonoše in the Czech Republic.
In the west, the Sudetes border with the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. The westernmost point of the Sudetes lies in the Dresden Heath (Dresdner Heide), the westernmost part of the West Lusatian Hill Country and Uplands, in Dresden.
The Sudeten Germans (the German-speaking inhabitants of Czechoslovakia) as well as the Sudetenland (the border regions of Bohemia, Moravia, and Czech Silesia they inhabited) are named after the Sudetes.
Etymology
The name Sudetes is derived from Sudeti montes, a Latinization of the name Soudeta ore used in the Geographia by the Greco-Roman writer Ptolemy (Book 2, Chapter 10) c. AD 150 for a range of mountains in Germania in the general region of the modern Czech Republic.
There is no consensus about which mountains he meant, and he could for example have intended the Ore Mountains, joining the modern Sudetes to their west, or even (according to Schütte) the Bohemian Forest (although this is normally considered to be equivalent to Ptolemy's Gabreta forest). The modern Sudetes are probably Ptolemy's Askiburgion mountains.
Ptolemy wrote "Σούδητα" in Greek, which is a neuter plural. Latin mons, however, is a masculine, hence Sudeti. The Latin version, and the modern geographical identification, is likely to be a scholastic innovation, as it is not attested in classical Latin literature. The meaning of the name is not known. In one hypothetical derivation, it means Mountains of Wild Boars, relying on Indo-European *su-, "pig". A better etymology perhaps is from Latin sudis, plural sudes, "spines", which can be used of spiny fish or spiny terrain.
Subdivisions
The Sudetes are usually divided into:
- Eastern Sudetes, in the Czech Republic and Poland
- Golden Mountains
- Hanušovice Highlands
- Hrubý Jeseník with Mt. Praděd, 1,491 m (4,892 ft)
- Nízký Jeseník
- Opawskie Mountains
- Králický Sněžník Mountains
- Central Sudetes, in the Czech Republic and Poland
- Orlické Mountains with Mt. Velká Deštná, 1,115 m (3,658 ft)
- Kłodzko Valley
- Bystrzyckie Mountains
- Bardzkie Mountains
- Stołowe Mountains
- Owl Mountains
- Krucze Mountains
- Stone Mountains
- Waldenburg Mountains
- Western Sudetes, in Germany, the Czech Republic and Poland
- Giant Mountains with Mt. Sněžka, 1,603 m (5,259 ft)
- Ještěd–Kozákov Ridge
- Jizera Mountains
- Kaczawskie Mountains
- Lusatian Mountains
- Lusatian Highlands
- Rudawy Janowickie
- Jelenia Góra Valley
- Sudeten Foreland
High Sudetes (Polish: Wysokie Sudety, Czech: Vysoké Sudety, German: Hochsudeten) is together name for the ranges of Giant Mountains, Hrubý Jeseník and Králický Sněžník Mountains.
Climate
The highest mountains, those located along the Czech–Polish border have annual precipitations around 1,500 millimetres (59 in). The Table Mountains, which reach 919 metres (3,015 ft) in elevation, have precipitations ranging from 750 millimetres (30 in) at lower locations to 920 millimetres (36 in) in the upper parts, with July being the rainiest month. Snow cover at the Table Mountains typically last 70 to 95 days depending on altitude.
Vegetation
Settlement, logging and clearance has left forest pockets in the foothills with dense and continuous forest being found in the upper parts of the mountains. Due to logging in the last centuries little remains of the broad-leaf trees like beech, sycamore, ash and littleleaf linden that were once common in the Sudetes. Instead Norway spruce was planted in their place in the early 19th century, in some places amounting to monocultures. To provide more space for spruce plantations various peatlands were drained in the 19th and 20th century. Some spruce plantations have suffered severe damage as the seeds used came from lowland specimens that were not adapted to mountain conditions.Silver fir grow naturally in the Sudetes being more widespread in past times, before clearance since the Late Middle Ages and subsequent industrial pollution reduced the stands.
Many arctic-alpine and alpine vascular plants have a disjunct distribution being notably absent from the central Sudetes despite suitable habitats. Possibly this is the result a warm period during the Holocene (last 10,000 years) which wiped out cold-adapted vascular plants in the medium-sized mountains of the central Sudetes where there was no higher ground that could serve as refugia. Besides altitude the distribution of some alpine plants is influenced by soil. This is the case of Aster alpinus that grows preferentially on calcareous ground. Other alpine plants such as Cardamine amara, Epilobium anagallidifolium, and Solidago virgaurea occur beyond their altitudinal zonation in very humid areas.
Peatlands are common in the mountains occurring on high plateaus or in valley bottoms. Fens occur at slopes.
Timber line
The higher mountains of the Sudetes lie above the timber line which is made up of Norway spruce. Spruces in wind-exposed areas display features such as flag tree disposition of branches, tilted stems and elongated stem cross sections. Forest-free areas above the timber line have increased historically by deforestation yet lowering of the timber line by human activity is minimal. Areas above the timber line appear discontinuously as "islands" in the Sudetes. In the Giant Mountains the timber line lies at c. 1230 m a.s.l. while to the southeast in the Hrubý Jeseník mountains it lie at c. 1310 m a.s.l. Part of the Hrubý Jeseník mountains have been above the timber line for no less than 5000 years. Mountains rise considerably above the timber line, at most 400 m, a characteristic that sets the Sudetes apart from other Mittelgebirge of Central Europe.
Geology
Geological research has been hampered by the multinational geography of the Sudetes with and the limitation of studies to state boundaries.
Bedrock
The igneous and metamorphic rocks of the Sudetes originated during the Variscan orogeny and its aftermath. The Sudetes are the northeasternmost accessible part of Variscan orogen as in the North European Plain the orogen is buried beneath sediments.Plate tectonic movements during the Variscan orogeny assembled together four major and two to three lesser tectonostratigraphic terranes. The assemblage of the terranes ought to have involved the closure of at least two ocean basins containing oceanic crust and marine sediments. This is reflected in the ophiolites, MORB-basalts, blueschists and eclogites that occur in-between terranes. Various terranes of the Sudetes are likely extensions of the Armorican terrane while other terranes may be the fringes of the ancient Baltica continent. One possibility for the amalgamation of terranes in the Sudetes is that the Góry Sowie-Kłodzko terrane collided with the Orlica-Śnieżnik terrane causing the closure of a small oceanic basin. This event led to obduction of the in the Devonian period. In the Early Carboniferous the joint Góry Sowie-Kłodzko-Orlica-Śnieżnik terrane collided with the Brunovistulian terrane. This last terrane was part of the Old Red Continent and could correspond either to Baltica or the eastern tip of the narrow Avalonia terrane. Also by the Early Carboniferous the Saxothuringian terrane collided with the Góry Sowie-Kłodzko-Orlica-Śnieżnik terrane closing the Rheic Ocean.
Once the main phase of deformation of the orogeny was over basins that had formed in-between metamorphic rock massifs were filled by sedimentary rock in the Devonian and Carboniferous periods. During and after sedimentation large granitic plutons intruded the crust. Viewed in a map today these plutons make up about 15% the Sudetes. Granites are of S-type. The granites and grantic-gneisses of Izera in the west Sudetes are disassociated from orogeny and thought to have formed during rifting along a passive continental margin. The Karkonosze Granite, also in the west Sudetes, have been dated to have formed c. 318 million years ago at the beginning of the Variscan orogeny. The Karkonosze Granite is intruded by somewhat younger lamprophyre dykes.
A NW-SE to WNW-ESE oriented strike-slip fault —the Intra-Sudetic fault— runs through the length of the Sudetes. The Intra-Sudetic fault is parallel with the and . Other main faults at the sudetes are also NW-SE oriented, dextral and of strike slip type. These include the Tłumaczów-Sienna Fault and the Marginal Sudetic Fault.
Volcanism and thermal waters
There are remnants of lava flows and volcanic plugs in the Sudetes. The volcanic rocks making up these outcrops are of mafic chemistry and include basanite and represent episodes of volcanism in the Oligocene and Miocene periods. Volcanism affected not only the Sudetes but also parts of the Sudetic foreland being part of a SW-NE oriented Bohemo-Silesian Belt of volcanic rocks.Mantle xenoliths have been recovered from the lavas of a volcano at Ještěd-Kozákov Ridge in the Czech western Sudetes. These pyroxenite xenoliths arrived to surface from approximate depths of 35, 70 and 73 km and indicate a complex history for the mantle beneath the Sudetes.
There are thermal springs in the Sudetes with measured temperatures of 29 to 44 °C. Drilling has revealed the existence of waters at 87 °C at depths of 2000 m. These modern waters are believed to be associated to the Late Cenozoic volcanism in Central Europe.
Uplift and landforms
The Sudetes forms the NE border of the Bohemian Massif. In detail the Sudetes is made up of a series of massifs that are rectangular and rhomboid in plan view. These mountains corresponds to horsts and domes separated by basins, including grabens. The mountains took their present form after the Late Mesozoic retreat of the seas from the area which left the Sudetes subject to denudation for at least 65 million years. This meant that during the Late Cretaceous and Early Cenozoic 8 to 4 km of rock was eroded from the top of what is now the Sudetes. Concurrently with the Cenozoic denudation the climate cooled due to the northward drift of Europe. The collision between Africa and Europe has resulted in the deformation and uplift of the Sudetes. As such the uplift is related to the contemporary rise of the Alps and Carpathians. The acceleration of uplift of the Sudetes occurred during the Middle Miocene because of the Bohemian Massif's growth. Uplift was accomplished by the creation or reactivation of numerous faults leading to a reshaping of the relief by renewed erosion. Various "hanging valleys" attest to this uplift. has uplifted or sunken crustal blocks. While the Late Cenozoic uplift has uplifted the Sudetes as a whole some grabens precede this uplift.
Weathering during the Cenozoic led to the formation of an etchplain in parts of Sudetes. While this etchplain has been eroded various landforms and weathering mantles have been suggested to attest its former existence. At present the mountain range shows a remarkable diversity of landforms. Some of the landforms present are escarpments, inselbergs, bornhardts, granitic domes, tors, flared slopes and weathering pits. Various escarpments have originated from faults and may reach heights of up to 500 m. To the northeast the Sudetes is separated from the Sudetic foreland by a sharp made up of an escarpment linked to the Sudetic Marginal Fault. Near Kaczawa this escarpment reaches 80 to 120 m in height. The relative influence of Pliocene-Quaternary tectonic movements and erosion in shaping the mountain landscape may vary along the northern front of the Sudetes.
During the Quaternary glaciations the Giant Mountains was the most glaciated part of the Sudetes. Evidence of this are its glacial cirques and the glacial valleys that develop next to it. The precise timing of the glaciations in the Sudetes is poorly constrained. Parts of the Sudetes remained free from glacier ice developing permafrost soils and periglacial landforms such as rock glaciers, nivation hollows, patterned ground, blockfields, solifluction landforms, blockstreams, tors and cryoplanation terraces. The occurrence or not of these periglacial landforms depends on altitude, the steepness and direction of slopes and the underlying rock type.
Mass wasting
Other than debris flows there is little contemporary mass wasting in the mountains.Avalanches are common in the Sudetes.
History
The area around the Sudetes had by the 12th century been relatively densely settled with agriculture and settlements expanding further in the High Middle Ages from the 13th century onward. The majority of settlers were Germans from neighbouring Silesia, founding typical Waldhufendörfer. As this trend went on thinning of forest and deforestation had turned clearly unsustainable by the 14th century. In the 15th and 16th centuries agriculture had reached the inner part of Table Mountains in the Central Sudetes. Destruction and degradation of the Sudetes forest peaked in the 16th and 17th centuries with demand of firewood coming from glasshouses that operated through the area in the early modern period.
Some limited form of forest management begun in the 18th century while in the industrial age demand for firewood was sustained by metallurgic industries in the settlements and cities around the mountains. In the 19th century the Central Sudetes had an economic boom with sandstone quarrying and a flourishing tourism industry centered on the natural scenery. Despite this there was at least since the 1880s a trend of depopulation of villages and hamlets which continued into the 20th century. Since World War II various areas that were cleared of forest have been re-naturalized. Industrial activity across Europe has caused considerable damage to the forests as acid rain and heavy metals has arrived with westerly and southwesterly winds.Silver firs have proven particularly vulnerable to industrial soil contamination.
Sudetes and "Sudetenland"
After World War I, the name Sudetenland came into use to describe areas of the First Czechoslovak Republic with large ethnic German populations. In 1918, the short-lived rump state of German-Austria proclaimed a Province of the Sudetenland in northern Moravia and Austrian Silesia around the city of Opava (Troppau).
The term was used in a wider sense when on 1 October 1933 Konrad Henlein founded the Sudeten German Party and in Nazi German parlance Sudetendeutsche (Sudeten Germans) referred to all autochthonous ethnic Germans in Czechoslovakia. They were heavily clustered in the entire mountainous periphery of Czechoslovakia—not only in the former Moravian Provinz Sudetenland but also along the northwestern Bohemian borderlands with German Lower Silesia, Saxony and Bavaria, in an area formerly called German Bohemia. In total, the German minority population of interwar Czechoslovakia numbered around 20% of the total national population.
Sparking the Sudeten Crisis, Adolf Hitler got his future enemies Britain and France to concede the Sudetenland with most of the Czechoslovak border fortifications in the 1938 Munich Agreement, leaving the remainder of Czechoslovakia shorn of its natural borders and buffer zone, finally occupied by Germany in March 1939. After being annexed by Nazi Germany, much of the region was redesignated as the Reichsgau Sudetenland.
After World War II, most of the previous population of the Sudetes was forcibly expelled on the basis of the Potsdam Agreement and the Beneš decrees, and the region was resettled by new Polish and Czechoslovak citizens. A considerable proportion of the Czechoslovak populace thereafter strongly objected to the use of the term Sudety. In the Czech Republic the designation Krkonošsko-jesenická subprovincie is used in academic context and usually only the discrete Czech names for the individual mountain ranges (e.g. Giant Mountains) appear, as under Subdivisions above.
Economy and tourism
Part of the economy of the Sudetes is dedicated to tourism. Coal mining towns like Wałbrzych have re-oriented their economies towards tourism since the decline of mining in the 1980s. As of 2000 scholar Krzysztof R. Mazurski judged that the Sudetes, much like Poland's Baltic coast and the Carpathians, were unlikely to attract much foreign tourism.Sandstone was quarried in Sudetes during the 19th and 20th centuries. Likewise volcanic rock has also been quarried to such degree untouched volcanoes are scarce. Sandstone labyrinths have been a notable tourist attraction since the 19th century with considerable investments being done in projecting trails some of which involve rock engineering.
In the Sudetes there are many spa towns with sanatoria. In many places the developed tourist base – hotels, guest houses, ski infrastructure.
The nearest international airports are Dresden Airport in Dresden and Wrocław Airport in Wrocław.
Notable towns
Towns in this area with more than 10,000 inhabitants include:
- Poland
- Bielawa
- Bogatynia
- Boguszów-Gorce
- Dzierżoniów
- Głuchołazy
- Jawor
- Jelenia Góra
- Kamienna Góra
- Kłodzko
- Kowary
- Lubań
- Nowa Ruda
- Strzegom
- Świdnica
- Świebodzice
- Wałbrzych
- Ząbkowice Śląskie
- Zgorzelec
- Czech Republic
- Bruntál
- Jablonec nad Nisou
- Jeseník
- Krnov
- Liberec
- Náchod
- Šumperk
- Trutnov
- Vrchlabí
- Zábřeh
- Germany
- Bautzen
- Bischofswerda
- Dresden
- Ebersbach-Neugersdorf
- Görlitz
- Kamenz
- Löbau
- Neustadt in Sachsen
- Radeberg
- Zittau
Gallery
- Śnieżne Kotły
- Pielgrzymy
- "Hell" on Szczeliniec Wielki, Table Mountains
- Góry Sokole
- Góry Sokole
- Rudawy Janowickie
- Colourful lakelets
- Table Mountains
- Kamieńczyk Falls
- A view from Zygmuntówka refuge, Owl Mountain range (Góry Sowie)
- Małe Organy Myśliborskie
- Tripoint of Germany, Czech Republic, and Poland in the Eastern Upper Lusatia
- Monastery ruins on the Oybin
- Zittau Mountains with the Hochwald mountain
- Rock Gate (Felsentor)
- Ještěd–Kozákov Ridge
- View towards the Jizerskohorské bučiny National Nature Reserve
- Wilczki Falls
See also
- Chojnik
- Crown of Polish Mountains
- Main Sudetes Trail
- Grüssau Abbey
- Izera railway
- Kłodzko Fortress
- Książ
- Lower Silesian Voivodeship
- Mount Ślęża
- Niesytno Castle
- Srebrna Góra
- Tourism in Poland
- Wambierzyce
- Wilczka Falls Nature Reserve
Notes
- Not to be confused with a glacial refugium.
- Alfred Jahn's geomorphological studies of the Polish Sudetes in 1953 and 1980 exemplify this.
- Geologist Tom McCann lists the main Variscan terranes that make up much of the Sudetes as the Moldanubian, Góry-Sowie-Klodzko, Teplá Barriandian, Lusatia-Izera terrane, Brunovistulian terrane. The first three lie in the central Sudetes while the last two in the west and central Sudetes.
- Contrary to this case S-type granites are typically thought to come into existence concurrently or slightly after orogeny.
- Some volcanic rocks may be as young as of Early Pliocene age.
- Fission track dating yields various possibilities about the Late Cenozoic uplift of the Sudetes. Possibly the last uplift pulse begun 7 to 5 million years ago.
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- Migoń, Piotr; Latocha, Agnieszka (2013). "Human interactions with the sandstone landscape of central Sudetes". Applied Geography. 42: 206–216. Bibcode:2013AppGe..42..206M. doi:10.1016/j.apgeog.2013.03.015.
- Mazurski, Krzysztof R. (2000). "Geographical perspectives on Polish tourism". GeoJournal. 50 (2/3): 173–179. Bibcode:2000GeoJo..50..173M. doi:10.1023/a:1007180910552. S2CID 153221684.
- Migoń, Piotr; Pijet-Migoń, Edyta (2015). "Overlooked Geomorphological Component of Volcanic Geoheritage – Diversity and Perspectives for Tourism Industry, Pogórze Kaczawskie Region, SW Poland". Geoheritage. 8 (4): 333–350. doi:10.1007/s12371-015-0166-8.
External links
- Orographic map with Sudetes highlighted (in French); in English
The Sudetes s uː ˈ d iː t iː z soo DEE teez also known as the Sudeten Mountains or Sudetic Mountains is a geomorphological subprovince of the Bohemian Massif province in Central Europe shared by the Czech Republic Poland and Germany They consist mainly of mountain ranges and are the highest part of Bohemian Massif They stretch from the Saxon capital of Dresden in the northwest across to the region of Lower Silesia in Poland and to the Moravian Gate in the Czech Republic in the east Geographically the Sudetes are a Mittelgebirge with some characteristics typical of high mountains Its plateaus and subtle summit relief makes the Sudetes more akin to mountains of Northern Europe than to the Alps SudetesSniezne Kotly in the Karkonosze National ParkHighest pointPeakSnezka SniezkaElevation1 603 m 5 259 ft Coordinates50 44 10 N 15 44 24 E 50 73611 N 15 74000 E 50 73611 15 74000DimensionsLength300 km 190 mi NamingNative nameKrkonossko jesenicka subprovincie Czech Sudeten German Sudety Polish Sudety Upper Sorbian GeographyDivisions of the SudetesCountriesCzech RepublicPolandGermanyRegions VoivodeshipsUsti nad LabemLiberecHradec KralovePardubiceOlomoucMoravian SilesianLower SilesianOpoleSaxonyRange coordinates50 30 N 16 00 E 50 5 N 16 E 50 5 16GeologyOrogeniesVariscan orogeny assembly Alpine orogeny uplift SniezkaKralicky SneznikMouflon In the east of the Sudetes the Moravian Gate and Ostrava Basin separates from the Carpathian Mountains The Sudetes highest mountain is Mount Snezka Sniezka 1 603 m 5 259 ft which is also the highest mountain of the Czech Republic Bohemia Silesia and Lower Silesian Voivodeship in the Giant Mountains lying on the border between the Czech Republic and Poland Mount Praded 1 491 m 4 893 ft in the Hruby Jesenik mountains is the highest mountain of Moravia Lusatia s highest point 1 072 m 3 517 ft lies on Mount Smrk Smrek in the Jizera Mountains and the Sudetes highest mountain in Germany which is also the country s highest mountain east of the river Elbe is Mount Lausche Luz 793 m 2 600 ft in the Zittau Mountains the highest part of the Lusatian Mountains The most notable rivers rising in the Sudetes are Elbe Oder Spree Morava Bobr Lusatian Neisse Eastern Neisse Jizera and Kwisa The highest parts of the Sudetes are protected by national parks Karkonosze and Stolowe Table in Poland and Krkonose in the Czech Republic In the west the Sudetes border with the Elbe Sandstone Mountains The westernmost point of the Sudetes lies in the Dresden Heath Dresdner Heide the westernmost part of the West Lusatian Hill Country and Uplands in Dresden The Sudeten Germans the German speaking inhabitants of Czechoslovakia as well as the Sudetenland the border regions of Bohemia Moravia and Czech Silesia they inhabited are named after the Sudetes EtymologyThe name Sudetes is derived from Sudeti montes a Latinization of the name Soudeta ore used in the Geographia by the Greco Roman writer Ptolemy Book 2 Chapter 10 c AD 150 for a range of mountains in Germania in the general region of the modern Czech Republic There is no consensus about which mountains he meant and he could for example have intended the Ore Mountains joining the modern Sudetes to their west or even according to Schutte the Bohemian Forest although this is normally considered to be equivalent to Ptolemy s Gabreta forest The modern Sudetes are probably Ptolemy s Askiburgion mountains Ptolemy wrote Soydhta in Greek which is a neuter plural Latin mons however is a masculine hence Sudeti The Latin version and the modern geographical identification is likely to be a scholastic innovation as it is not attested in classical Latin literature The meaning of the name is not known In one hypothetical derivation it means Mountains of Wild Boars relying on Indo European su pig A better etymology perhaps is from Latin sudis plural sudes spines which can be used of spiny fish or spiny terrain SubdivisionsThe Sudetes are usually divided into Eastern Sudetes in the Czech Republic and Poland Golden Mountains Hanusovice Highlands Hruby Jesenik with Mt Praded 1 491 m 4 892 ft Nizky Jesenik Opawskie Mountains Kralicky Sneznik Mountains Central Sudetes in the Czech Republic and Poland Orlicke Mountains with Mt Velka Destna 1 115 m 3 658 ft Klodzko Valley Bystrzyckie Mountains Bardzkie Mountains Stolowe Mountains Owl Mountains Krucze Mountains Stone Mountains Waldenburg Mountains Western Sudetes in Germany the Czech Republic and Poland Giant Mountains with Mt Snezka 1 603 m 5 259 ft Jested Kozakov Ridge Jizera Mountains Kaczawskie Mountains Lusatian Mountains Lusatian Highlands Rudawy Janowickie Jelenia Gora Valley Sudeten Foreland High Sudetes Polish Wysokie Sudety Czech Vysoke Sudety German Hochsudeten is together name for the ranges of Giant Mountains Hruby Jesenik and Kralicky Sneznik Mountains ClimateHala Izerska Polish Pole of Cold in the Jizera Mountains The highest mountains those located along the Czech Polish border have annual precipitations around 1 500 millimetres 59 in The Table Mountains which reach 919 metres 3 015 ft in elevation have precipitations ranging from 750 millimetres 30 in at lower locations to 920 millimetres 36 in in the upper parts with July being the rainiest month Snow cover at the Table Mountains typically last 70 to 95 days depending on altitude VegetationSettlement logging and clearance has left forest pockets in the foothills with dense and continuous forest being found in the upper parts of the mountains Due to logging in the last centuries little remains of the broad leaf trees like beech sycamore ash and littleleaf linden that were once common in the Sudetes Instead Norway spruce was planted in their place in the early 19th century in some places amounting to monocultures To provide more space for spruce plantations various peatlands were drained in the 19th and 20th century Some spruce plantations have suffered severe damage as the seeds used came from lowland specimens that were not adapted to mountain conditions Silver fir grow naturally in the Sudetes being more widespread in past times before clearance since the Late Middle Ages and subsequent industrial pollution reduced the stands Many arctic alpine and alpine vascular plants have a disjunct distribution being notably absent from the central Sudetes despite suitable habitats Possibly this is the result a warm period during the Holocene last 10 000 years which wiped out cold adapted vascular plants in the medium sized mountains of the central Sudetes where there was no higher ground that could serve as refugia Besides altitude the distribution of some alpine plants is influenced by soil This is the case of Aster alpinus that grows preferentially on calcareous ground Other alpine plants such as Cardamine amara Epilobium anagallidifolium and Solidago virgaurea occur beyond their altitudinal zonation in very humid areas Peatlands are common in the mountains occurring on high plateaus or in valley bottoms Fens occur at slopes Timber line The higher mountains of the Sudetes lie above the timber line which is made up of Norway spruce Spruces in wind exposed areas display features such as flag tree disposition of branches tilted stems and elongated stem cross sections Forest free areas above the timber line have increased historically by deforestation yet lowering of the timber line by human activity is minimal Areas above the timber line appear discontinuously as islands in the Sudetes In the Giant Mountains the timber line lies at c 1230 m a s l while to the southeast in the Hruby Jesenik mountains it lie at c 1310 m a s l Part of the Hruby Jesenik mountains have been above the timber line for no less than 5000 years Mountains rise considerably above the timber line at most 400 m a characteristic that sets the Sudetes apart from other Mittelgebirge of Central Europe GeologyGeological research has been hampered by the multinational geography of the Sudetes with and the limitation of studies to state boundaries Bedrock Reconstruction of the Old Red Continent against which the terranes or building blocks of the Sudetes collided in Late Paleozoic times The area of present day Sudetes lies near the eastern end of Avalonia The igneous and metamorphic rocks of the Sudetes originated during the Variscan orogeny and its aftermath The Sudetes are the northeasternmost accessible part of Variscan orogen as in the North European Plain the orogen is buried beneath sediments Plate tectonic movements during the Variscan orogeny assembled together four major and two to three lesser tectonostratigraphic terranes The assemblage of the terranes ought to have involved the closure of at least two ocean basins containing oceanic crust and marine sediments This is reflected in the ophiolites MORB basalts blueschists and eclogites that occur in between terranes Various terranes of the Sudetes are likely extensions of the Armorican terrane while other terranes may be the fringes of the ancient Baltica continent One possibility for the amalgamation of terranes in the Sudetes is that the Gory Sowie Klodzko terrane collided with the Orlica Snieznik terrane causing the closure of a small oceanic basin This event led to obduction of the in the Devonian period In the Early Carboniferous the joint Gory Sowie Klodzko Orlica Snieznik terrane collided with the Brunovistulian terrane This last terrane was part of the Old Red Continent and could correspond either to Baltica or the eastern tip of the narrow Avalonia terrane Also by the Early Carboniferous the Saxothuringian terrane collided with the Gory Sowie Klodzko Orlica Snieznik terrane closing the Rheic Ocean Once the main phase of deformation of the orogeny was over basins that had formed in between metamorphic rock massifs were filled by sedimentary rock in the Devonian and Carboniferous periods During and after sedimentation large granitic plutons intruded the crust Viewed in a map today these plutons make up about 15 the Sudetes Granites are of S type The granites and grantic gneisses of Izera in the west Sudetes are disassociated from orogeny and thought to have formed during rifting along a passive continental margin The Karkonosze Granite also in the west Sudetes have been dated to have formed c 318 million years ago at the beginning of the Variscan orogeny The Karkonosze Granite is intruded by somewhat younger lamprophyre dykes A NW SE to WNW ESE oriented strike slip fault the Intra Sudetic fault runs through the length of the Sudetes The Intra Sudetic fault is parallel with the and Other main faults at the sudetes are also NW SE oriented dextral and of strike slip type These include the Tlumaczow Sienna Fault and the Marginal Sudetic Fault Volcanism and thermal waters Ostrzyca an eroded volcano in the northern Sudetes There are remnants of lava flows and volcanic plugs in the Sudetes The volcanic rocks making up these outcrops are of mafic chemistry and include basanite and represent episodes of volcanism in the Oligocene and Miocene periods Volcanism affected not only the Sudetes but also parts of the Sudetic foreland being part of a SW NE oriented Bohemo Silesian Belt of volcanic rocks Mantle xenoliths have been recovered from the lavas of a volcano at Jested Kozakov Ridge in the Czech western Sudetes These pyroxenite xenoliths arrived to surface from approximate depths of 35 70 and 73 km and indicate a complex history for the mantle beneath the Sudetes There are thermal springs in the Sudetes with measured temperatures of 29 to 44 C Drilling has revealed the existence of waters at 87 C at depths of 2000 m These modern waters are believed to be associated to the Late Cenozoic volcanism in Central Europe Uplift and landforms Escarpment at Szczeliniec Wielki Table Mountains The Sudetes forms the NE border of the Bohemian Massif In detail the Sudetes is made up of a series of massifs that are rectangular and rhomboid in plan view These mountains corresponds to horsts and domes separated by basins including grabens The mountains took their present form after the Late Mesozoic retreat of the seas from the area which left the Sudetes subject to denudation for at least 65 million years This meant that during the Late Cretaceous and Early Cenozoic 8 to 4 km of rock was eroded from the top of what is now the Sudetes Concurrently with the Cenozoic denudation the climate cooled due to the northward drift of Europe The collision between Africa and Europe has resulted in the deformation and uplift of the Sudetes As such the uplift is related to the contemporary rise of the Alps and Carpathians The acceleration of uplift of the Sudetes occurred during the Middle Miocene because of the Bohemian Massif s growth Uplift was accomplished by the creation or reactivation of numerous faults leading to a reshaping of the relief by renewed erosion Various hanging valleys attest to this uplift has uplifted or sunken crustal blocks While the Late Cenozoic uplift has uplifted the Sudetes as a whole some grabens precede this uplift Tor landform made up of granite in the Sudetes Weathering during the Cenozoic led to the formation of an etchplain in parts of Sudetes While this etchplain has been eroded various landforms and weathering mantles have been suggested to attest its former existence At present the mountain range shows a remarkable diversity of landforms Some of the landforms present are escarpments inselbergs bornhardts granitic domes tors flared slopes and weathering pits Various escarpments have originated from faults and may reach heights of up to 500 m To the northeast the Sudetes is separated from the Sudetic foreland by a sharp made up of an escarpment linked to the Sudetic Marginal Fault Near Kaczawa this escarpment reaches 80 to 120 m in height The relative influence of Pliocene Quaternary tectonic movements and erosion in shaping the mountain landscape may vary along the northern front of the Sudetes During the Quaternary glaciations the Giant Mountains was the most glaciated part of the Sudetes Evidence of this are its glacial cirques and the glacial valleys that develop next to it The precise timing of the glaciations in the Sudetes is poorly constrained Parts of the Sudetes remained free from glacier ice developing permafrost soils and periglacial landforms such as rock glaciers nivation hollows patterned ground blockfields solifluction landforms blockstreams tors and cryoplanation terraces The occurrence or not of these periglacial landforms depends on altitude the steepness and direction of slopes and the underlying rock type Mass wasting Other than debris flows there is little contemporary mass wasting in the mountains Avalanches are common in the Sudetes HistoryKarpaczVang Stave Church The area around the Sudetes had by the 12th century been relatively densely settled with agriculture and settlements expanding further in the High Middle Ages from the 13th century onward The majority of settlers were Germans from neighbouring Silesia founding typical Waldhufendorfer As this trend went on thinning of forest and deforestation had turned clearly unsustainable by the 14th century In the 15th and 16th centuries agriculture had reached the inner part of Table Mountains in the Central Sudetes Destruction and degradation of the Sudetes forest peaked in the 16th and 17th centuries with demand of firewood coming from glasshouses that operated through the area in the early modern period Some limited form of forest management begun in the 18th century while in the industrial age demand for firewood was sustained by metallurgic industries in the settlements and cities around the mountains In the 19th century the Central Sudetes had an economic boom with sandstone quarrying and a flourishing tourism industry centered on the natural scenery Despite this there was at least since the 1880s a trend of depopulation of villages and hamlets which continued into the 20th century Since World War II various areas that were cleared of forest have been re naturalized Industrial activity across Europe has caused considerable damage to the forests as acid rain and heavy metals has arrived with westerly and southwesterly winds Silver firs have proven particularly vulnerable to industrial soil contamination Sudetes and Sudetenland Project Riese Owl Mountains After World War I the name Sudetenland came into use to describe areas of the First Czechoslovak Republic with large ethnic German populations In 1918 the short lived rump state of German Austria proclaimed a Province of the Sudetenland in northern Moravia and Austrian Silesia around the city of Opava Troppau The term was used in a wider sense when on 1 October 1933 Konrad Henlein founded the Sudeten German Party and in Nazi German parlance Sudetendeutsche Sudeten Germans referred to all autochthonous ethnic Germans in Czechoslovakia They were heavily clustered in the entire mountainous periphery of Czechoslovakia not only in the former Moravian Provinz Sudetenland but also along the northwestern Bohemian borderlands with German Lower Silesia Saxony and Bavaria in an area formerly called German Bohemia In total the German minority population of interwar Czechoslovakia numbered around 20 of the total national population Sparking the Sudeten Crisis Adolf Hitler got his future enemies Britain and France to concede the Sudetenland with most of the Czechoslovak border fortifications in the 1938 Munich Agreement leaving the remainder of Czechoslovakia shorn of its natural borders and buffer zone finally occupied by Germany in March 1939 After being annexed by Nazi Germany much of the region was redesignated as the Reichsgau Sudetenland After World War II most of the previous population of the Sudetes was forcibly expelled on the basis of the Potsdam Agreement and the Benes decrees and the region was resettled by new Polish and Czechoslovak citizens A considerable proportion of the Czechoslovak populace thereafter strongly objected to the use of the term Sudety In the Czech Republic the designation Krkonossko jesenicka subprovincie is used in academic context and usually only the discrete Czech names for the individual mountain ranges e g Giant Mountains appear as under Subdivisions above Economy and tourismWinter in the Giant Mountains Polish refuge Samotnia 1195 m a s l Part of the economy of the Sudetes is dedicated to tourism Coal mining towns like Walbrzych have re oriented their economies towards tourism since the decline of mining in the 1980s As of 2000 scholar Krzysztof R Mazurski judged that the Sudetes much like Poland s Baltic coast and the Carpathians were unlikely to attract much foreign tourism Sandstone was quarried in Sudetes during the 19th and 20th centuries Likewise volcanic rock has also been quarried to such degree untouched volcanoes are scarce Sandstone labyrinths have been a notable tourist attraction since the 19th century with considerable investments being done in projecting trails some of which involve rock engineering In the Sudetes there are many spa towns with sanatoria In many places the developed tourist base hotels guest houses ski infrastructure The nearest international airports are Dresden Airport in Dresden and Wroclaw Airport in Wroclaw Notable towns Towns in this area with more than 10 000 inhabitants include PolandBielawa Bogatynia Boguszow Gorce Dzierzoniow Glucholazy Jawor Jelenia Gora Kamienna Gora Klodzko Kowary Luban Nowa Ruda Strzegom Swidnica Swiebodzice Walbrzych Zabkowice Slaskie Zgorzelec Czech RepublicBruntal Jablonec nad Nisou Jesenik Krnov Liberec Nachod Sumperk Trutnov Vrchlabi Zabreh GermanyBautzen Bischofswerda Dresden Ebersbach Neugersdorf Gorlitz Kamenz Lobau Neustadt in Sachsen Radeberg ZittauGallerySniezne Kotly Pielgrzymy Hell on Szczeliniec Wielki Table Mountains Gory Sokole Gory Sokole Rudawy Janowickie Colourful lakelets Table Mountains Kamienczyk Falls A view from Zygmuntowka refuge Owl Mountain range Gory Sowie Male Organy Mysliborskie Tripoint of Germany Czech Republic and Poland in the Eastern Upper Lusatia Monastery ruins on the Oybin Zittau Mountains with the Hochwald mountain Rock Gate Felsentor Jested Kozakov Ridge View towards the Jizerskohorske buciny National Nature Reserve Wilczki FallsSee alsoChojnik Crown of Polish Mountains Main Sudetes Trail Grussau Abbey Izera railway Klodzko Fortress Ksiaz Lower Silesian Voivodeship Mount Sleza Niesytno Castle Srebrna Gora Tourism in Poland Wambierzyce Wilczka Falls Nature ReserveNotesNot to be confused with a glacial refugium Alfred Jahn s geomorphological studies of the Polish Sudetes in 1953 and 1980 exemplify this Geologist Tom McCann lists the main Variscan terranes that make up much of the Sudetes as the Moldanubian Gory Sowie Klodzko Tepla Barriandian Lusatia Izera terrane Brunovistulian terrane The first three lie in the central Sudetes while the last two in the west and central Sudetes Contrary to this case S type granites are typically thought to come into existence concurrently or slightly after orogeny Some volcanic rocks may be as young as of Early Pliocene age Fission track dating yields various possibilities about the Late Cenozoic uplift of the Sudetes Possibly the last uplift pulse begun 7 to 5 million years ago ReferencesMigon Piort 2008 High mountain elements in the geomorphology of the Sudetes Bohemian Massif and their significance Geographia Polonica 81 1 101 116 Mazurski Krzysztof R 1986 The destruction of forests in the polish Sudetes Mountains by industrial emissions Forest Ecology and Management 17 4 303 315 Bibcode 1986ForEM 17 303M doi 10 1016 0378 1127 86 90158 1 Schutte 1917 Ptolemy s maps of northern Europe a reconstruction of the prototype Kjobenhavn H Hagerup p 141 Schutte 1917 Ptolemy s maps of northern Europe a reconstruction of the prototype Kjobenhavn H Hagerup p 56 Treml Vaclav Jankovska Vlasta Libor Petr 2008 Holocene dynamics of the alpine timberline in the High Sudetes Biologia 63 1 73 80 Bibcode 2008Biolg 63 73T doi 10 2478 s11756 008 0021 3 Glina Bartlomiej Malkiewicz Malgorzata Mendyk Lukasz Bogacz Adam Wozniczka Przemyslaw 2016 Human affected disturbances in vegetation cover and peatland development in the late Holocene recorded in shallow mountain peatlands Central Sudetes SW Poland Boreas 46 2 294 307 doi 10 1111 bor 12203 S2CID 133200850 Barzdajn Wladyslaw 2004 Rehabilitation of silver fir Abies alba Mill populations in the Sudetes Report of the second 20 22 September 2001 Valsain Spain and third 17 19 October 2002 Kostrzyca Poland meetings Report pp 45 51 Kwiatkowski Pawel Krahulec Frantisek 2016 Disjunct Distribution Patterns in Vascular Flora of the Sudetes Ann Bot Fennici 53 1 2 91 102 doi 10 5735 085 053 0217 S2CID 86962680 Krizek M 2007 Periglacial landforms above the alpine timberline in the High Sudetes PDF In Goudie A S Kalvoda J eds Geomorphological variations Prague ProGrafiS Publ pp 313 338 Wistuba Malgorzata Papciak Tomasz Malik Ireneusz Barnas Agnieszka Polowy Marta Pilorz Wojciech 2014 Wzrost dekoncentryczny swierka pospolitego jako efekt oddzialywania dominujacego kierunku wiatru przyklad z Hrubego Jesenika Sudety Wschodnie Eccentric growth of Norway spruce trees as a result of prevailing winds impact example from Hruby Jesenik Eastern Sudetes Studia I Materialy CEPL W Rogowie in Polish 40 3 63 73 Rozycka Milena Migon Piotr 2017 Tectonic geomorphology of the Sudetes Mountains Central Europe A review and re apprisal Annales Societatis Geologorum Poloniae 87 275 300 doi 10 14241 asgp 2017 016 Migon Piotr 1996 Evolution of granite landscapes in the Sudetes Central Europe some problems of interpretation Proceedings of the Geologists Association 107 1 25 37 Bibcode 1996PrGA 107 25M doi 10 1016 s0016 7878 96 80065 4 Mazur Stanislaw Alexandrowski Pawel Kryza Ryszard Oberc Dziedzic Teresa 2006 The Variscan Orogen in Poland Geological Quarterly 50 1 89 118 Mazur S Aleksandrowski P 2002 Collage tectonics in the northeasternmost part of the Variscan Belt the Sudetes Bohemian Massif Geological Society London Special Publications 201 1 237 277 Bibcode 2002GSLSP 201 237A doi 10 1144 gsl sp 2002 201 01 12 S2CID 140166878 McCann Tom 2008 Sudetes In McCann Tom ed The Geology of Central Europe Volume 1 Pre Cambrian and Palaeozoic Vol 1 London The Geological Society p 496 ISBN 978 1 86239 245 8 Mazur Stanislaw Aleksandrowski Pawel Turniak Krzysztof Awdankiewicz Marek 2007 Geology tectonic evolution and Late Palaeozoic magmatism of Sudetes an overview Granitoids in Poland Vol 1 pp 59 87 Oberc Dziedzic T Pin C Kryza R 2005 Early Palaeozoic crustal melting in an extensional setting petrological and Sm Nd evidence from the Izera granite gneisses Polish Sudetes International Journal of Earth Sciences 94 3 354 368 Bibcode 2005IJEaS 94 354O doi 10 1007 s00531 005 0507 y S2CID 129243888 Awdankiewicz Marek Awdankiewicz Honorata Kryza Ryszard Rodinov Nickolay 2009 SHRIMP zircon study of a micromonzodiorite dyke in the Karkonosze Granite Sudetes SW Poland age constraints for late Variscan magmatism in Central Europe Geological Magazine 147 1 77 85 doi 10 1017 S001675680999015X S2CID 129844097 Jozef Oberc 1991 Systems of main longitudinal strike slip faults in the vicinity of the Gory Sowie Block Sudetes Kwartalnik Geologiczny 35 4 403 420 Birkenmajer Krzysztof Pecskay Zoltan Grabowski Jacek Lorenc Marek W Zagozdzon Pawel P 2002 Radiometric dating of the Tertiary volcanics in Lower Silesia Poland II K Ar and palaeomagnetic data from Neogene basanites near Ladek Zdroj Sudetes Mts Annales Societatis Geologorum Poloniae 72 119 129 Ackerman Lukas Petr Spacek Medaris Jr Gordon Hegner Ernst Svojtka Martin Ulrych Jaromir 2012 Geochemistry and petrology of pyroxenite xenoliths from Cenozoic alkaline basalts Bohemian Massif PDF Journal of Geosciences 57 199 219 doi 10 3190 jgeosci 125 Dowgiallo Jan 2000 The Sudetic geothermal region of Poland new findings and further prospects PDF Proceedins of the World Geothermal Congress World Geothermal Congress Kyushu Tohoku Japan pp 1089 1094 Migon Piotr 2011 Geomorphic Diversity of the Sudetes Effects of the structure and global change superimposed Geographia Polonica 2 93 105 Migon Piotr 1997 Tertiary etchsurfaces in the Sudetes Mountains SW Poland a contribution to the pre Quaternary morphology of Central Europe In Widdowson M ed Palaeosurfaces Recognition Reconstruction and Palaeoenvironmental Interpretation Geological Society Special Publication London The Geological Society Aramowicz Aleksander Anczkiewicz Aneta A Mazur Stanislaw 2006 Fission track dating of apatite from the Gory Sowie Massif Polish Sudetes NE Bohemian Massif implications for post Variscan denudation and uplift Neues Jahrbuch fur Mineralogie Abhandlungen 182 3 221 229 doi 10 1127 0077 7757 2006 0046 Sobczyk Artur Worobiec Elzbieta Olkowicz Marcin Szczygiel Jacek 15 April 2024 Mid Miocene onset of the NE Bohemian Massif SW Poland Europe growth landscape evolution and paleoenvironmental changes unraveled using paleokarst sediment palynology Palaeogeography Palaeoclimatology Palaeoecology 640 112107 doi 10 1016 j palaeo 2024 112107 Retrieved 3 September 2024 via Elsevier Science Direct Migon Piotr Lach Janusz 1998 Geomorphological evidence of neotectonics in the Kaczawa sector of the Sudetic Marginal Fault southwestern Poland Geologia Sudetica 31 307 316 Charles Higounet Die deutsche Ostsiedlung im Mittelalter in German p 167 Migon Piotr Latocha Agnieszka 2013 Human interactions with the sandstone landscape of central Sudetes Applied Geography 42 206 216 Bibcode 2013AppGe 42 206M doi 10 1016 j apgeog 2013 03 015 Mazurski Krzysztof R 2000 Geographical perspectives on Polish tourism GeoJournal 50 2 3 173 179 Bibcode 2000GeoJo 50 173M doi 10 1023 a 1007180910552 S2CID 153221684 Migon Piotr Pijet Migon Edyta 2015 Overlooked Geomorphological Component of Volcanic Geoheritage Diversity and Perspectives for Tourism Industry Pogorze Kaczawskie Region SW Poland Geoheritage 8 4 333 350 doi 10 1007 s12371 015 0166 8 External linksWikivoyage has a travel guide for Sudetes Wikimedia Commons has media related to Sudetes Orographic map with Sudetes highlighted in French in English